時尚工作者

“古著不代表老舊、不代表過時,它是經過歲月洗練後,最高端的時尚”


Wazaiii

2019-4-21

|Wazaiii專訪|永遠經典的時尚文化─Vintage古著

(文末附上英文訪談內容/ English version of this interview is down below.)

旁人看熱鬧、內行看門道,用這句話形容「Vintage古著文化」,可說是再貼切不過。

將時間軸拉回九零年代的倫敦,由披頭四、Vivienne Westwood等名人及設計師帶起的「混穿熱潮」,舊衣重穿及再造成為當時潮人的時尚圭臬。後來這股「時代熱」延燒到戰後留有大量美軍服飾的日本,崇洋與反叛的心理交疊,澀谷、町田、裏原宿則透過優異的仿舊功法,將Vintage的呼聲推至最頂處。

這大概是大家對於「古著」的既定印象─仿舊、重製、二手,但其實不然。真正的古著,指的是二零到八零之間,保存良好且能體現時代精髓的設計師服飾,某些技藝現在已經很難看到,某些細節就算後輩再怎麼臨摹,好像就是不那麼有味道。

正因古著文化那麼深奧、卻同時迷人到令人神往,Wazaiii編輯決定實地走訪巴黎頗具盛名的古著店「THANX GOD I’M A VIP」,向主理人夫妻檔Amnaye與Sylvie取經。走進店裡,錯落有致的真皮皮件、按照色階陳列的大衣與洋裝,還有最讓復古迷醉心的,無法形容的老物香氣襲上身,究竟在Amnaye眼中,何謂復古?何謂時尚?兩者之間的關聯又何在?跟我一樣等不及聽解答的,古著大師的不藏私解惑,看下去。

↑巴黎頗具盛名的古著店「THANX GOD I’M A VIP」主理人Amnaye

「您當初跟太太Sylvie一同開店的契機為何?古著是你們共同的興趣嗎?」

『Well……這是一段很長的故事。我太太在1994年開了第一家服飾店後又停了幾年,當我們相遇之後,發現兩人對於「時尚、古著、生活」懷抱著相同的夢想,也渴望完成一件屬於我們的Project。

↑Amnaye與其妻子Sylvie共同經營的「THANX GOD I’M A VIP」,是兩人開設的第一家古著小店,到現在也已陪伴這對夫妻檔走過十幾個年頭。

當時我告訴她,既然她家裡蒐集了那麼多古董衣,為何不就拿來賣?所以我們就在隔壁開設了第一家古著小店,不知不覺就這樣走過10幾年。』

「為何當初會想把兩間店開在一起?」

『在巴黎,如果店主想拓展營業規模,通常房東只會允許他們把分店開在二樓(如果想找其他據點又是另一回事,不過小店的物流和資金狀況不太能允許多方設點。)不過當時我們的房東告訴我們,隔壁一樓的空間,也就是我們現在待的地方,可以特例租給我們,於是我們把牆打穿、擴大坪數,還特別規劃了「男裝區」和「女裝區」。

你得知道,雖然當時的男人不像現代這麼喜歡穿古著,不過我們確實因此吸引到不少特立獨行的年輕人,如今他們仍是我們的忠實顧客,當然,這些現在早就見怪不怪了。』

「您究竟是如何蒐集到這麼多古著的?看看它們!」

『這我當然不能告訴你,哈哈!(可惡,沒套到話)我認為做這行最重要的就是「人脈」,Sylvie認識非常多古著專家,我們也很常走訪世界各地挖寶,累積了快三十年的人脈,我們自然有辦法找到好貨。

↑Amnaye向大家分享道,身處巴黎其實也是為「THANX GOD I’M A VIP」覓得好貨的原因之一。

另外,我很討厭這麼說,但這是事實,巴黎是世界的時尚重鎮,這座城市創造了無數精美的訂製服和時裝,這裡也是Yves Saint Laurent、Hermes、Christian Dior等時裝屋的發源地,這些是我們的先天優勢,我們做的只是專注在我們熱愛的事以及消費者對於法式復古的醉心罷了。』

「提到「法式復古」,您會如何定義它?」

『我認為法國的女人和設計師們都非常強調強烈的用色、廓形及線條,他們總能大膽嘗試,卻又不失優雅洗鍊,在兩者之間尋得絕佳的平衡點。』

↑Amnaye親自為李函挑選的Yves Saint Laurent桃紅色外套,是否相當具有「法式復古」的味道?

「當您蒐集店內販售的古著服飾時,是否會特別著迷於哪個年代的設計?」

『不太會。「Vintage」一詞源自「紅酒」,也就是法文的「Le vin」(原來如此!語言學如此奧妙的部分),法國人非常熱愛品酒,我們甚至不太在乎手中的酒來自哪個年份,好喝順口就好,古著也是。

不管它是來自五零、六零還是七零年代,我們真正在乎的是從一個年代挑出設計最好的、品質最佳的、最經典不衰的,而不是通通都挑同個年代的。』

「所以挑選古著時最重要的還是老闆的品味?」

『沒錯,對於我老婆挑貨的品味,我非常自豪(Amnaye眼神堅定,很是感人)。她多年來累積的眼光除了讓她能在茫茫衣海中,挑到最特別、最漂亮的,另外,我們相信每件古著都能傳遞一個故事、一種情緒,而這就是成功的秘密。我們打造了一個空間,讓喜歡古著的消費者可以一踏進店裡,就能認識我和Sylvie,有些古著店主理人專精於晚宴裝,有些擅於蒐集戰用軍裝,但我們喜歡收藏「不退時的古著」,因為時尚是不斷重複循環的一個圈,上一季亮橘色最流行,下一季卻是青蘋果綠當道,設計師們春夏用了大量的蓬蓬袖,秋冬卻可能通通栽進修身剪裁的俐落感。

時尚趨勢不斷在變,所以我們從來就不必「過度懷舊」,古著不代表老舊、不代表過時,它是經過歲月洗練後,最高端的時尚。』

「這麼說,當Sylvie在尋找古著時,她同時也非常關注流行趨勢?」

『完全沒錯,這就是我們不斷嘗試做到的,一件70或80的YSL裙子可能恰好符合2019年消費者的審美,你知道設計師間流傳著一本「Trend book」嗎?(點頭)

↑「THANX GOD I’M A VIP」就是一本古著Trend book,而決定這些Trend的人正是Amnaye與「THANX GOD I’M A VIP」的所有顧客。

上面會決定這季流行什麼顏色、下季流行什麼印花,我總覺得「THANX GOD I’M A VIP」就是一本古著Trend book,這三個月流行什麼,由我們和顧客一起決定。』

「我注意到「THANX GOD I’M A VIP」店內有一個自創品牌叫作「Maison Chateigner」,它和其他古著的差別何在?」

『你從名字就能看出來,「Maison Chateigner」是由我太太創立的,哦對了,Sylvie姓Chateigner,哈哈!創立這個品牌主要的目的,是希望可以將男性的舊衣服,改造成女性的新單品,那時我太太會把在古著店買來的男版襯衫當作one-piece洋裝來穿,路人很常問她是在哪裡買的,很好看,當然哪都買不到,因為這是Sylvie自己解構、重造的,後來我百般勸她自創品牌,少害臊了!

 

Maison Chateigner(@maisonchateigner)分享的貼文 張貼

 

 

Maison Chateigner(@maisonchateigner)分享的貼文 張貼

 

 

Maison Chateigner(@maisonchateigner)分享的貼文 張貼


↑「Maison Chateigner」是Sylvie創立的品牌,主要的目的是希望可以將男性的舊衣服,改造成女性的新單品。

半推半就、一步一腳印前進之下,我們才在去年創立了「她」的王國。(Wazaiii編輯:誰說歐洲男人比誰都愛面子?Amnaye從來就是擦拭Sylvie、任她發光的溫暖臂彎。)』

「那麼,既然這已是一個獨立的品牌,為何不把自己做出來的改造襯衫規模化量產?或是找尋更大的通路或選品店讓更多人看到它?」

『你知道,我們的主要目標從來就不是賺錢,所以除了店內陳列,「Maison Chateigner」只有在網路上販售,只有這樣,不管你來自巴黎、美國或亞洲,都能享有同樣的價錢,而且這個價錢是合理的,消費者能用可負擔的金額,換得品質卓越的法製羊毛、紡紗及棉料,你看一眼它,然後再看看旁邊的Chanel,對我而言,它們的美麗程度是相等的。』

 

Maison Chateigner(@maisonchateigner)分享的貼文 張貼

 

 

Maison Chateigner(@maisonchateigner)分享的貼文 張貼


↑「Maison Chateigner」只有在網路上販售,因為Amnaye和Sylvie認為只有這樣的銷售方式,才能讓各國喜愛這個品牌的顧客,以合理、可負擔的價格買到品質優良的單品。

「懂了。(Wazaiii編輯面露崇拜、雙膝觸地)那麼您有特別崇拜哪位設計師嗎?」

『嗯……我愛聖羅蘭先生。像這件(右手俐落的挑起陳列上的上衣)這是八零年代的YSL,而且它是全新的,我看看,噢,售價是240歐元,然後你看看它,這一樣是YSL的,光是用雙眼掃視,你就能看出布料和廓形有多精緻,放到現代也非常實穿,可以同時保有經典和時髦感,這就是古著讓人難以招架的魅力。』

↑Amnaye拿起YSL上衣,毫不掩飾的表達自己對聖羅蘭的熱愛,他認為精緻的布料及廓型,不論經過多久都能保有獨特的魅力,而這也是他們如此著迷於古著的原因。

「談到經典和現代相碰頭,對於年輕人而言,您認為「古著」和「快時尚」是可以混搭的嗎?或其實根本就沒有所謂的可不可以?」

『我做這行十年了,各式各樣風格的人我都遇過,對我來說,只要是「在意外表」的人,「混搭」本就是他們的天性,或至少會願意不斷嘗試。像我這身是用Uniqlo混搭古著,噢,靴子是Christophe Lemaire的,也不一定全身都得著用老東西,我現在感覺非常好。』

「所以,您曾注意來自世界各地的人,在古著及時尚之間抓取不同風格?」

『當然啊!我曾見過來自洛杉磯、首爾、東京、中國的客人,他們穿戴古著的方式不盡相同,在我們的事業剛起步前,大多知道我們的都是來自巴黎或歐洲的客人,但現在,我們吸引了來自世界各地的古著愛用者,所以也見過不同地域下碰撞出的火花。

我覺得古著是無國界之分的,一件單品穿在不同人身上,會有完全不一樣的效果,就像我前面說的,時尚是一個輪迴,與其像隻無頭蒼蠅盲目追尋,找一個自己喜愛且能駕馭的風格,才是穿搭王道。』

後記

訪完Amnaye和Sylvie,Wazaiii編輯心中只有敬佩二字。

我當然敬佩他們的挑貨眼光,不過更讓人心悅誠服的,是兩人對於古著文化的熱忱,你們真該瞧瞧Amnaye拿起聖羅蘭時的眼神,像極了看到糖果的嬰孩,還有談到自創品牌時,他的神色有多麼驕傲。每件親挑的衣服都是獨一無二,故事性永遠比實不實穿來得重要。

Wazaiii編輯想起自己在Netflix上看過一部名叫《Girlboss》的影集,女主角Sophia擅長將從古著店挖來的二手衣放在eBay拍賣,翻身成為千萬富翁後,她始終留著一件騎士皮外套,可能是紅藍白配色、可能是龐克感廓型,它總讓我想起David Bowie的搖滾時代,這就是古著的魅力,它能說故事。(影集本身沒那麼好看就是了)

時尚趨勢不斷從時裝歷史找尋靈感,有時五零的赫本性感是當季大勢,有時八零的墊肩讓眾人群起效尤,經歷流金歲月洗練之下的古著,像是洞悉一切的時尚禿鷹,不盲目的跟隨流行、它自成一格,有老物的復古質地,卻比誰都走得還前面。

原來啊,最高級的時尚經典,正是Vintage。

(English Version)

How did you and your wife start off this vintage store? Is it your common interest?

 

THANX GOD I'M A VIP Paris(@thanxgodimavip)分享的貼文 張貼

 

Well, it’s a long story. My wife established a store in 1994, and stopped for a few years. Afterwards, we met each other, both having the desire to start a project not only linked to fashion and vintage, but “lifestyle” as well. Since she had collected so many vintage clothes to a point that we don’t even have enough of space at home, we were like “Why not selling all of them?”. So we opened a small boutique, which is next to where we’re at now.

 

THANX GOD I'M A VIP Paris(@thanxgodimavip)分享的貼文 張貼

 

So why did you set up two stores right next to each other?

You know, usually in Paris, if the owners want to expand the dimension of their stores, they are mostly allowed to set up the next place above the original one, which makes it two floors.

 

THANX GOD I'M A VIP Paris(@thanxgodimavip)分享的貼文 張貼

 

However, the landlord told us we could take the next-door space and break right through the wall to connect one another, so we did it! Not only did we connect them, but we delegated a specific department for women and another for men.

How do you gather so many vintage clothes? I mean, look at them!

It’s our secret for sure, haha! But I can tell you that, doing what we do for nearly 30 years now, the most important thing is always “connections”. My wife knows a lot of professional people and we travel often, so we’d have the resources we require. Besides, despite the fact that I hate to say it but it’s true, Paris is the leading fashion capital. We have created an amount of coutures and exquisite clothes for a long time, and also, big brands and “maisons” like Yves Saint Laurent, Hermes, and Christian Dior are all located here. What we do is focusing on what we love and the what people love about French style.

 

THANX GOD I'M A VIP Paris(@thanxgodimavip)分享的貼文 張貼

 

How would you describe French style back at old times?

I think both French designers and women emphasize the bold colour, shapes and silhouettes. At the same time, they manage to keep the clothes look refined and not too over-the-top.

 

THANX GOD I'M A VIP Paris(@thanxgodimavip)分享的貼文 張貼

 

Is there a specific era that you love when you collect your storage?

Not so much. Actually, the word “vintage” comes from wine, which in French is “le vin”. You know how French people enjoy wine and we don’t care which era it’s from, so is vintage. No matter it’s from the 50s, 60s or 70s, all we care is to pick our favorite from “each” decade, instead of loving everything from a certain time.

 

THANX GOD I'M A VIP Paris(@thanxgodimavip)分享的貼文 張貼

 

So it all comes down to your taste level?

Yes. I’m so proud of my wife’s taste level. She has a good eye enabling her to find special pieces, which are not only unique and beautiful but conveying a story. I think this is our secret. We create visions for our customers so that once they step in our vintage stores, they know our personalities.There are some other vintage owners that specialize military outfits or evening dresses. As for us, we try to find pieces that fit the trends now, because fashion is cycling. Sometimes fashion adores bright orange one season, but turn their fingers to apple green next. Designers may develop puffy sleeves in their spring/summer collections, but turn to slim-fit waist line in their fall/winter ones. Fashion changes all the time, so it’s unnecessary to be trapped by “nostalgia”. Vintage does not mean old, it’s a more classic version of fashion from my perspective.

 

THANX GOD I'M A VIP Paris(@thanxgodimavip)分享的貼文 張貼

 

With that said, even though your wife searches for vintage clothes, she can also catch up with the latest trends?

Exactly! This is what we have tried to accomplish. Sometimes you can find a Yves Saint Laurent skirt in the 70s or 80s here that fit customers’ aesthetic now. You know designers have a “trend book” that decides which fabrics, colors, or prints they’d use from season to season, and I feel like  「THANX GOD I’M A VIP」is a trend book itself.

 

THANX GOD I'M A VIP Paris(@thanxgodimavip)分享的貼文 張貼

 

Yeah, it’s like walking in the history with trends that people can really touch. In here, it seems like fashion and vintage are both tangible.

Voila! And it makes us work even harder knowing that we can really determine people’s wardrobes and recognition. We try to offer people that love fashion but couldn’t afford high-end clothes, with providing equivalent quality in a more reasonable price. Furthermore, it’s our honor to create a more sustainable platform in the retail industry. We use recycled paper, recycled decors and of course, recycled clothes. Vintage can represent more than loving dated outfits, it’s also an expression of showing love to the world.

 

THANX GOD I'M A VIP Paris(@thanxgodimavip)分享的貼文 張貼

 

I’ve noticed that 「THANX GOD I’M A VIP」has its own brand named「Maison Chateigner」. What could differentiate the two within one place?

As you can tell by the name, the brand「Maison Chateigner」is founded in 2018 by my wife,  Chateigner. The main spirit is to repurpose and reconstruct men’s old clothes into women’s new options. The idea came from the old days, when she would put on a men’s shirt that she made it into a dress, and people on the street would be like “Oh my god! Where did you find this?” Of course no one could ever find it, cause she reproduced it on her own. And one day I asked her not to be shy, instead, since we have our own channel, why not just put your “twist” for sale? Then she kinda agreed and we start everything step by step to where we are now.

 

Maison Chateigner(@maisonchateigner)分享的貼文 張貼

 

But why not just put the lines or collection into a bigger channel such as department stores and select shops for the fact that it’s an independent brand?

You know, it’s not our aim to make more money. We want to keep the price fair, so we only sale this brand online. For that, people from Paris or anywhere in the world would share the same price, getting fabrics like wools, yarns or cotton made in France. At the same time, you can look at all the Chanel products, they are both so appealing in my opinion.

 

THANX GOD I'M A VIP Paris(@thanxgodimavip)分享的貼文 張貼

 

Got it. Is there a specific designer that you like or worship?

Uhh…… I love Yves Saint Laurent. This is from the 80s and it’s never worn. Oh, it’s 240 euros. And this total look, wow it’s also YSL. You can tell how exquisite the fabrics, the shapes of them are, and it’s difficult to find anything like that now. That’s what makes vintage so irresistible, for it being classic and contemporary at the same time.

 

THANX GOD I'M A VIP Paris(@thanxgodimavip)分享的貼文 張貼

 

Talking about classic trends meeting the contemporary ones, for youngsters nowadays, do you think they can “mix-and-match”vintage and fast-fashion, or there’s no such boundary?

For me, after my ten-year business experience, I’ve seen so many different styles from people around the world. I think it’s fair to say that “mix-and-match” is what people who cares about their appearance would naturally do, so yeah, there’s no limit. Now I’m wearing our brand with Uniqlo, and oh my boots are from Christophe Lemaire, and I couldn’t feel better.

 

THANX GOD I'M A VIP Paris(@thanxgodimavip)分享的貼文 張貼

 

So you’ve noticed that every country has their own flair when it comes to the clash of vintage and fashion?

Mais oui! People from L.A., Seoul, Tokyo, China differ. At the beginning of our career, our main customers are from Paris and mostly Europe. As we build are reputation step by step overseas, vintage lovers from Asia started to purchase our products. We love how vintage is borderless, and that with the exactly same item, different person would wear a different way. As I said, fashion is a cycle, and we are here to not follow it blindly, but harness it with personal style.

 

Editor/ 責任編輯:Eddie Ma

◎Photo Via:Chris Yi, INSTAGRAM


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